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This winter, our attention was drawn to two booklets on the shelves with magazines dedicated to bektans in publishing houses and other Relays. Their feature: they are both embodied by personality. Good, whose second issue hit newsstands in early December after first being published in winter 2020, is sponsored by two-star award-winning and media-friendly chef Thierry Marx, who helms the publication and signs the editorial. less expected five starsquarterly “a lively, purposeful and shared kitchen”, led by rapper and actor Joey Starr. We have read them… and recommend the first one, even if it is a bit more expensive (€9.50).
Joey Starr’s magazine is reserved for fans of the artist, who is a serious contender for My Video Everywhere: we find his photo on more than 20 of the 145 pages, not to mention the photo novel that puts him on stage. in the kitchen with his son and various illustrations depicting him. We will say that the magazine is undoubtedly framed more like a TV program, where we will follow the star’s culinary journeys (which are completely timeless as he meets chefs Julien Dubois, Nina Metayer, Laetitia Wisse, Basque butcher Eric Hospital or even reminiscent of the Refugee Food Festival) than as a review. But when the two spread pages invite us to take a look at Joey Starr’s refrigerator and his kitchen playlist (sections that would be more interesting with refrigerators or chef, manufacturer or artisan playlists), we think that at €7.90, the magazine is a bit of an expensive trip. ego. Moreover, the tone is self-caricatured, with a lot of unnecessary vulgar vocabulary. First of all, we wonder what the next issues will be able to talk about if the light is not shed on others.
Better turn to the magazine this weekend Good, more classical in style and richer and more specialized in content. In particular, there is an article about “ten commandments for new hotels”an interesting reflection on how we can invite children to share their tastes and develop critical thinking (while keeping them silent in a restaurant), an investigation into how Instagram changed beauty codes to pastries, a report on Tunisian butter … And there are “only” three photographs by Thierry Marx.
On the banks of the canal, in the Parc de la Villette (Paris, 19th century), a strange hut has settled, all trimmed with wood: this is Ventrus, a nomadic restaurant that can be assembled and dismantled as you wander. While he is acting in the capital, at least until March. The philosophy of this place, invented by Guillaume Choupeau: set a table with a great view without disturbing the place too much, limiting the use of water and purifying it, composting waste, turning to local producers … Several residents and guest chefs take turns in the kitchen. When we arrived we were enjoying plates to share (or not) from Marion May: grilled broccoli, tahini and pecorino (€9), confit rabbit liver, chutney, dandelion (€13), cabbage stuffed with pork, prunes and sesame broth (€15), tuna, white butter, grapefruit, coconut beans (€19)… Good skittles and friendly service as a bonus.
Ventrus, Parc de la Villette, Canal Avenue, 75019 Paris. Open from Wednesday to Sunday. Information. : 09.86.87.18.97 and www.ventrus.fr.
Found in the aptly named Main(s). My kitchen toolbox by Katherine Kluger (ed. de la Martinière, 2021), here’s a carrot sauce that pairs well with green salad, raw veggies, or roasted veggies. You will need 2 carrots, peeled and grated (or sliced, depending on the power of your blender); a teaspoon of finely grated fresh ginger; a tablespoon of rice or apple cider vinegar; a tablespoon of white miso paste (from Asian or organic grocery stores) a tablespoon of lemon juice; 1 tablespoon roasted cashews (or mashed cashews) 2 teaspoons salted soy sauce; 2 teaspoons of sesame oil; 5 liters of cold water; salt and pepper.
Katherine Kluger explains: “I put all the ingredients in a blender bowl or tall bowl with an immersion blender and blend, gradually adding cold water, to make a very smooth sauce.” This sauce will keep for a week in an airtight jar in the refrigerator.
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